Cole slaw and Cold slaw were both terms for the same thing that were used simultaneously in the 19th century, though at least one period source states that cole slaw was the “usual” manner of pronouncing it, while it was “sometimes” called cold slaw. 1 The term ‘cole slaw’ simply means sliced cabbage, with or without vinegar. 2
Cabbage salad had many different variations, most which did not resemble 'cold slaw' as we now know it. I have only been able to find two pre-1866 recipes that even comes close. Most cold slaws today are made with mayonnaise base which generally means an oil, mustard, and egg yolk combination.
Oil was seldom used in preparing cabbage salad in the period, at least among the cooks I researched. Though it is interesting to note that according to The Food Timeline, it states that Peter Kalm described coleslaw in his Travels in North America published in 1770, when "he describe[d] how his Dutch landlady served him 'an unusual salad,' which 'tastes better than one can imagine... cabbage... cut in long thin strips' dressed with oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper, well mixed to evenly distribute the oil." 3
Some ‘cold slaw’ recipes were just that simple. Mrs. Hutchingson 4 called only for vinegar and a little salt, while Mrs. Haskell 5 preferred vinegar, salt, pepper and sugar.
Of the thirteen cookbooks that I have researched ranging from 1796-1865 6, seven had recipes for “cold slaw,” and only one used oil (which seems to have caught on post war). The one that did contain oil, was Mrs. Bliss’s recipe which contained ground mustard, olive oil, salt, Cayenne, hard boiled egg yolks, and vinegar the instructions were to mix well. 7 The next cook to include oil was Hannah Peterson, in 1866 in a recipe entitled “French Slaw.”
As I said above, I believe that both ‘cole slaw’ and ‘cold slaw’ were used simultaneously for the same thing. That the correct term was always ‘cole slaw,’ but that cooks often referred to it as ‘cold slaw,’ which I believe was primarily to differentiate it from the warm and hot slaws, though it did enter the American vernacular for all-around use. I will provide a number of antebellum references as well as war-time references at the end of this post.
I agree that the word ‘cole’ is of Latin origin; but the cabbage salad, as least as it came to America, was considered by most to be a Dutch dish, thus the Dutch koolsla/ Kohl slau (or whatever variation of spelling of it one wishes to use) does appear to be a relevant point in the pursuit of understanding period cole/cold slaw.
It does seem to be somewhat easy to find modern sources that conclude that cole slaw is a corruption of the term cold slaw, however they don’t back up their assertions. I believe that cole slaw (or at least it's Dutch form) was the true and proper term, and that cold slaw is an American vulgarism, and I will back up my assertions.
In the May 1861 Historical Magazine, “Americanisms – The Progress of Corruption – The Dutch sliced cabbage Kohl slau, has, among the vulgar, got to be Cold slaw; this was bad enough. But as an offset to the last we find in a country paper, on the bill of fare of a dinner, Hot slaw. As the cabbage has thus disappeared, it may be necessary to chronicle the word, to save some future investigator the difficulties attendant on the inquiry into the meaning of the word slaw and the determining of its true botanical designation.” 8
Here the gentleman is saying that the correct term is really Kohl slau, but that we’ve made it cold slaw. I think it’s funny because he says that with hot slaw the word for cabbage has disappeared, and he thinks that they ought to chronicle the word to save us the trouble. Thanks, sir you have saved us the trouble!
Of course the answer he gets in June 1861 is that it is “usually pronounced cole-slaw, -- and sometimes cold slaw (as if to distinguish it from some sort of a hot slaw). These common names are mere corruptions of the German words, ‘kohl salat’…” So here he’s telling us how the term is *usually* pronounced. 9 [emphasis added]
In yet another answer in June 1861 the author states, “…Cole is, however, an English word, and it’s corruption into cold would be unaccountable, did we not daily see similar transformations, as: asparagus to sparrow-grass; in-our-days to now-a-days.” 10 Again, showing that cold is a corruption.
Antebellum and war-time references to cole slaw. I believe all of these are on Google Books, except for
Report of the Commissioner of Agriculture for the Year 1862 (which we own).
1824 11
The Highlands and Western Isles of Scotland... by John Macculloch, Walter Scott. "As to myself, if I were a Highland Chief, I would let my people wear as many breeches as a Dutchman, provided they would also add to them, even cole slaw or sour krout."
1842 12
The Southern Literary Messenger, March 1842. "Does not this mean separated, just as the fibres of the dried Calamus are separated, like the tobacco that is cut in shreds -- and like the cole-slaw of the table, cut into vermicular tortuosity?...
Is not Kale of the same family with the German Kohl, (cabbage,) with which our English terms Cole, Colewort, or Cabbage appears to have been a favorite article of food with our northern ancestors; the following may amuse you--
German -- Kohl
Dutch -- Kool
Swedish -- Kal (Kol)
Danish -- Kaal
Islandic -- Kal
Anglo Saxon -- Caul, Cawl, Caol
Only to think of our orthographical (not to speak of our vetetable) murder in the case of what we call cole-slaw! (Kohl-schlacht -- Kool-slag.)..."
The above “Cabbage” article also appeared in Debow’s Review the same month March 1842.
1845 13
An Explanatory and Phonographic Pronouncing Dictionary of the English Language by William Bolles. "Slaw, ... n. Coleslaw: Sliced cabbage."
1846 2
An American Dictionary of the English Language by Noah Webster. 1846
"Slaw, n. [D.slaa.] Cole-slaw is sliced cabbage, with or without vinegar."
1853 14
Darlington, William. Flora Cestrica: An Herborizing Companion for the Young Botanists of Chester County, Pennsylvania... 1853. "Cabbage, in every form, has always been a general favorite with the Germans; and from them, we have borrowed not only the preparations of the herb, but their names, -- such as Sauer-kraut; and Kohl-Salat, -- which latter (meaning literally Cabbage Salad,) has been anglicised into Cole -- and even Cold-Slaw!"
1854 15
Glossology: Being a Treatise on the Nature of Language and on the Language of Nature. by Charles Kraitsir, M.D. 2nd edition, 1854 "Cabbage is made into sauer-kraut == sower growth or herb, and into cole-slaw or slaugh -- G. kohl salad, i.e. L. caul-is sal-at-us, salted, i.e., seasoned cabbage..."
1859 16
The American Home Garden, by Alexander Watson. 1859. "The 'sauer-kraut,' of which Germans are so fond, is made by halving fine solid cabbage-heads lengthwise, cutting out the stem, and shredding them as for 'cole-slaw,' but perhaps still finer."
1860 17
Mrs. Bradley's Housekeeper's Guide;... Economical Cook, 1860. Has a receipt for "Cabbage Salad and Cole-slaw"
1861 18 [emphasis my own]
From Evans's Rural Economist, 1861-62. "Cold-Slaw. Mr. Editor:-- ...it may be worth while for Chester County farmers, their wives and daughters, to understand that the salad so generally known as 'cole-slaw,' (sometimes called 'cold-slaw,' as if to distinguish it from some sort of hot slaw,) is a term borrowed and slightly corrupted from the German words kohl-salad -- meaning simply cabbage-salad. It only requires the t to be added to the usual name, cole-slaw, and expressed cole-salawt, to give it the primitive and proper sound.
Trivial as this explanation may seem, it is doubtful whether one in ten of our Chester County farmers--out of the German settlements -- is familiar with the source and exact meaning of the phrase. W.D. West Chester, Pa., April 9th, 1861."
1861 19
My article Historical Notes and Queries (excellent!)
1862 20
Report of the Commissioner of Agriculture for the Year 1862. "Sauer Kraut. The cabbage being gathered in October, before it has had too much frost, is cut nearly as fine as for cole-slaw..."
1862 21
The New Bedford Practical Receipt Book, Mendall. "Cole-slaw. One or two yolks of eggs well beaten, two table-spoonfuls of vinegar, quarter of a pound of butter, and a little salt, put all together into a sauce-pan and stirred over the fire until the butter is melted to prevent its oiling; have the cabbage cut very fine, and pour this mixture over it while warm, but not boiling; add some black pepper and let it stand until perfectly cold. Cole-slaw can also be prepared by dressing the cabbage as a salad."
1863 22
Godey's Magazine, December 1863. "Roast turkey with cranberry sauce, boiled fowls with celery sauce, boiled ham, goose pie, turnips, salsify, coleslaw, winter squash, beets; mince pudding boiled, lemon pudding baked, pumpkin pudding."
1864 23
History of the North-western Soldiers' Fair, Held in Chicago, 1864 "The Sisters of the Good Samaritan, 2 boxes containing 3 hams, 2 pans baked beans, 17 chickens, 6 cakes, 5 doz. tarts, a jar of quinces, a jar of very fine peaches, a jar cole slaw..."
So is it: "Cole Slaw" or "Cold Slaw"
looking at the cabbage salad in the CW era.
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